Lake Waikaremoana - Te Urewera

Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk, Te Urewera, New Zealand

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk from Hopuruahine Swingbridge to Onepoto is 46 km long and has been deliberately mis-managed over the years to the point where it is an embarrassment to New Zealand and the Great Walks brand. Expect mud, poorly maintained tracks and broken facilities. Waikaremoana should no longer be considered a Great Walk.
Map Data: Google, Digital Globe, Department of Conservation (DOC).

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below to explore this walk.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
For some strange reason, most people walk around Lake Waikaremoana clockwise. This means carrying our packs up the huge hill to Panekire Hut when they are heaviest and we are least fit. It makes much more sense to walk the track anti-clockwise and do the big hill at the end when our packs are lighter and we are fitter from a bit of hiking. Probably the most popular way to start the track is by getting a water taxi...

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Our Water Taxi operator is David Dods. An excellent bloke and a supremely competent captain, David took us out on a rough day with whitecaps all over the lake - and somehow made the journey smooth and enjoyable. Ginny - a nervous boat passenger - claimed "it was the smoothest boat trip I've ever had". A far cry from the traumatic tales we have heard about the other Water Taxi operators on the lake.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
As well as being a top-notch tour guide and a renowned trout-fishing guide, David and his wife, Teg, also run "The Byre" - very cosy and relaxed accommodation with stunning views. There is a holiday park right on the lake - but if you want some peace and quiet and genuine down-home hospitality, check out The Byre. We loved it.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
David showed us this waterfall and provided a very interesting commentary on the area's history as we boated across the lake. He also had the brilliant idea of dropping our packs at the first hut and then dropping us off nearer to the start of the track. That way, we did our first day's walk in supreme comfort. Thanks, David.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The easy 3.7 km walk from Hopuruahine Swingbridge to Whanganui Hut takes about 2 hours.
Map Data: Google, Digital Globe, Department of Conservation (DOC).

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
For people who aren't taking a water taxi, the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk starts here - at the Hopuruahine Swingbridge.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The rest of the walk to Whanganui Hut is easy with nice views of the lake.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Check out the (comparatively) massive trunks on these Ponga tree ferns.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WHANGANUI HUT - 18 bunk beds, woodburner for heating hut, mattresses. Not many trampers stay here because it is so close to the start of the track. Fantastic. There's nothing like having a hut to ourselves...

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WHANGANUI HUT.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WHANGANUI HUT - Excellent firewood was provided at all the huts except Panekire (the hut that really needs it the most). The park management paint the firewood blue to stop the locals stealing it. They don't paint the facilities - but they paint the firewood. Things are certainly different here and not in a good way.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WHANGANUI HUT - Kitchen / Dining Area.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WHANGANUI HUT - Bunkroom On The Right - Sleeping arrangements are three bunks high. Air ventilation comes from the many gaps in construction and the special vents at each end of the roof. There is no insect mesh and the Hut Book has many mentions of mosquito action at night. We saw no mosquitoes on the whole trip.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WHANGANUI HUT - Bunkroom On The Left.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WHANGANUI HUT - Just after sunset.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WHANGANUI HUT.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The walk from Whanganui Hut to Waiharuru Hut is an easy 2 hours 30 minutes, 5.3 km.
Map Data: Google, Digital Globe, Department of Conservation (DOC).

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
TAPUAENUI CAMPSITE.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Crossing the Puketukutuku Peninsula, we see the predator-proof fence which protects the park's Kiwi Sanctuary - and boy does it need it... There is a plague of stoats here.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT - Wow... Waiharuru Hut looks pretty flash (from a distance).

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT - 40 bunk beds, woodburner for heating hut, mattresses. There are two buildings. This one is the bunkroom.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT - Bunkroom.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT has nice big decks - and it gets surprisingly few visitors. Most people walk past on their way to the next hut (if they are wisely walking anti-clockwise) or to their Water Taxi (if they are walking the track clockwise). This makes Waiharuru Hut a great place to stay if we want space and peace and quiet.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT - Deck outside Bunkroom.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT - Deck outside Kitchen / Dining Room.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT - Kitchen / Dining Room.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT - Kitchen / Dining Room and Woodburner for heating.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT - This is the way to start a fire when we have really good firewood. No mucking around with kindling. Fire burns in the gaps between the bits of wood. So, if we make good gaps (like we have here), the fire will take off brilliantly. Balance the right-hand piece of wood against the inside of the stove. Light a tiny bit of firelighter and place it against the bottom of the right-hand piece of wood. Slide the big piece of wood in next to it and adjust the gap until the flame burns best. Then put the other bit of wood on top. Done.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT - That's the campsite we can see through the trees.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT - A fantastic though shabby hut in a gorgeous place. Like the rest of this formerly "Great" Walk, it is such a shame it is so poorly maintained...

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU HUT.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Track to Waiharuru Campsite.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIHARURU CAMPSITE.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Just in front of Waiharuru Hut is this beautiful little scene...

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
...and if we walk a few more steps, we come to a little beach and this view.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The walk from Waiharuru Hut to Marauiti Hut is a fairly easy 2 hours 6.2 km.
Map Data: Google, Digital Globe, Department of Conservation (DOC).

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The next day was sunny!

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
There it is in the distance... Marauiti Hut.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
MARAUITI HUT - 26 bunk beds, woodburner for heating hut, mattresses. Facilities were in poor condition at the time of visiting.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
MARAUITI HUT - The view from the deck. Overflowing toilets are to the right.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
MARAUITI HUT - Kitchen / Dining Area.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
MARAUITI HUT - Bunkroom. Note the extra bunks they've squeezed in overhead.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
MARAUITI HUT - Bunkroom.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
MARAUITI HUT - Here, DOC have been trying to re-establish the plant, "Kaka Beak" in a fenced off enclosure. Very appropriate as we could hear the endangered Kaka (a kind of parrot) and occasionally see them flying overhead.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
MARAUITI HUT - Just after sunset. As I was taking this photo, the grass around my feet was alive with the rustling of Stoats - one of the worst pest predators - and this, in an area blessed with many endangered species of bird.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The walk from Marauiti Hut to Waiopaoa Hut is a fairly easy but very long 5 hours 30 minutes, 12.1 km. Despite it being such a long day, it is pretty much compulsory to go and check out the beautiful Korokoro Falls - a 1 hour return side detour.
Map Data: Google, Digital Globe, Department of Conservation (DOC).

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The next day begins with a fairly steep 10 minute climb to this point.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Then the track returns to the flat and Maraunui Campsite.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The track climbs to this viewpoint.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
This bit of track is a bit dodgy and could do with some maintenance.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Here, we have the choice of going left to Korokoro Campsite or going right and bypassing it. Having walked both ways, we'd just go left here and walk via the campsite.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
KOROKORO CAMPSITE.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The main track and the campsite track meet up again at the start of this swingbridge.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Soon we come to an intersection and a sign saying "Korokoro Falls - 30 minutes". (That's 30 minutes each way). Today is a long day's walk - but we've really got to drop our packs here and go and have a look. Next time we'll take our walking poles with us. There's a slightly tricky river crossing and our poles would have helped...

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
This river crossing is tricky because we want to keep our boots dry. The rocks are slippery and the cable isn't tight. It is quite a balancing act to get across.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Korokoro Falls.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Crossing back over the tricky bit.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Back at the lake.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Mud! We don't normally see that on a Great Walk... Not one that is properly maintained to Great Walk standard anyway.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT - 30 bunk beds, woodburner for heating hut, mattresses. This is the only Great Walks hut where drinking the water has made me sick.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT - Deck.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT - Deck at end of Bunkroom. A great place to sleep outside.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT - Deck (viewed from Kitchen / Dining Room end of the hut).

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT - Washroom and Barbecue (if we bring in our own gas cylinder).

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT - Kitchen / Dining Room and Woodburner for heating hut.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT - Dining Area.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT - Kitchen.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT - Front Bunkroom.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT - Back Bunkroom.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA HUT.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Lakeside in front of Waiopaoa Hut.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
WAIOPAOA CAMPSITE - Drinking water is available from the tap on the water tank behind the shelter.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The 4 hours 7.6km climb from Waiopaoa Hut to Panekire Hut is why we walk counter-clockwise. We are now only carrying one night's food and we are fit from hiking around the lake.
Map Data: Google, Digital Globe, Department of Conservation (DOC).

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
And so our climb begins...

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
...through some of the most beautiful forest we've seen on this Great Walk.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Steps... We'll be seeing a lot of them today.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Goblin Forest! This, for us, is Waikaremoana's greatest attraction.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
View from Panekire Ridge.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
There's Panekire Hut...

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - Best thing to do after a big long climb like that is to take a mattress out onto the deck and lie in the sun.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - View of Lake Waikaremoana from in front of the hut.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - Kitchen / Dining Area and Woodburner for heating the hut. When we got here, it had snowed the night before and there was no dry firewood - just a few bits of wet wood. Beware. Take a hot water bottle. This Great Walk is deliberately mis-managed to a standard well below all the other Great Walks and indeed well below most back country walks.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - Kitchen and view into Front Bunkroom.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - Front Bunkroom.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - Kitchen / Dining Area.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - Rear Deck.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - Path to Toilets and Woodshed.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - Toilets and Woodshed.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - Ranger's Quarters.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT - Door into Front Bunkroom.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
The 5 hour 7.6 km walk from Panekire Hut downhill to the end of this Great Walk at Onepoto is hard on the knees. Walking poles are definitely recommended.
Map Data: Google, Digital Globe, Department of Conservation (DOC).

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Goblin Forest on Panekire Ridge.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
PANEKIRE HUT.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Goblin Forest is also known as Cloud Forest.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
We are sheltered from the wind here but it is still very cold. The wind is so strong... The noise is loud and constant and we can feel the ground moving under our feet as the trees sway in the wind and their roots try to hold on.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
View from Bald Knob over Lake Waikaremoana. The wind is howling and it is bitterly cold.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
View from Bald Knob over Lake Waikaremoana.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Terrible weather out there...

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
...but quite nice and sheltered here in the forest.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
Near the bottom of the climb down from Panekire Ridge, a side track leads to Lake Kiriopukae - actually two small lakes but after heavy rain they sometimes merge into one lake. There is a small cemetery here.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
ONEPOTO DAY SHELTER.

LAKE WAIKAREMOANA - Te Urewera
ONEPOTO SHELTER AND CARPARK - This is the end of our Great Walk.